German 2cm Flak38 PzKpfw 38(t)

Tristar 1:35 Scale Kit No. 35035
Review by Terry Ashley

Tristar continue their 38(t) series with this kit of the Sd.Kfz.140 Flakpanzer 38(t) which saw the 2cm FlaK38 fitted to the rear of the chassis with fold down sides to allow for better all around traverse, this also allowed the vehicle to engage ground targets if required. 141 Flakpanzer 38(t) were produced between November 1943 and February 1944 with the majority seeing service in and around Normandy after D-Day and Panzer Tracts No.12 also mentions that 48 were sent to Italy.

The Flakpanzer 38(t) was built of the same later 38(t) chassis used for the Panzerjaeger 38(t) Marder III Ausf.M and 15cm SiG33 auf 38(t) Ausf.K Grille but with the rear superstructure with the FlaK38.

There were also a number of vehicles produced without the 2cm fitted and these are purpose built ammunition resupply vehicles and not just Flakpanzer 38(t)s with the gun removed, all German SP guns had the same chassis minus gun built as ammo resupply vehicles that accompanied the armed SPs.

With the recent release by Dragon of their kit of the Flakpanzer 38(t) (kit #6469) the question of how they compared comes up but I will not make any direct comparison during this review other than a few images and a brief summary at the end as I plan to do a full 4 way kit comparison when the Italeri kit is available later this year. In the meantime you can do your own comparisons from the two reviews as I have endeavoured to post similar image views of both kits in each.

And so on with the kit review, there are features of the production Flakpanzer 38(t) that the kit includes such as the late type 2cm gun details, the correct solid drive sprockets but it too misses the perennial fender kink while including some very good detail. There is a very complete and detailed interior, thinly moulded superstructure sides, offset gun mounting and the cast driver’s hood as well as being overall dimensionally correct but also includes a bit of fine flash and pin marks on some parts that you probably wouldn’t expect to find and the break down of the parts requires careful assembly in places.

The Kit:

This uses quite a few parts from the previous Pz.Kpfw.38(t) based kits as well as from the 2cm FlaK38 Late (kit #35029) plus new parts such as the lower hull parts, upper hull panels and rear superstructure.

The kit has 502 parts moulded in light beige plastic with an additional 225 individual track links, a large fret of etched parts and a length of braided wire plus the decal and instruction sheets.


Standard of moulding is again very good overall but with a few pin marks to contend and while some are hidden after assembly those visible are quite shallow and easy to deal with and as mentioned some parts have fine flash present that will have to be removed before they fit properly while others are perfectly clean apart from the usual mould seam lines present on every kit.

There are many very small parts that will require care when removing from the sprues and during assembly and the level of detail is very good with well defined rivets and extensive use of slide moulds to add extra details.

Dimensionally the kit matches the 1:35 Flakpanzer 38(t) plans in the Panzer Tracts No.12 Flak Selbstfahrlafetten and Flakpanzer perfectly in all respects with any discrepancies being well within accepted tolerances. As a point of interest the 1:35 plans in the Armour in Focus Flakpanzer 38(t) book are oversized meaning the kit doesn’t match them at all (as it shouldn’t) and again shows you can’t put your house on a single set of plans but the photos and information in the book is invaluable for building the kit.

The kit includes the detailed forward transmission with driver’s seat and controls as well as the detailed engine from the Panzer 38(t) Full Interior Set (set #35032) with some modifications for the Flakpanzer 38(t) layout that fills out the interior nicely; it’s a pity more of this can’t be seen after assembly.

Lower Hull:

The lower hull tub is made up of four main parts with the full length floor plate that includes the lower front plate with separate hull side panels that includes detail on both sides plus the rear plate that when fitted together form the basis for the rest of the kit and as such the fit of these parts is paramount to the final outcome.

The side panels include the cut-outs for the engine intakes including the large rear opening on the right side leading to the radiator.

The fit on my kit was spot on without any warping on the floor plate to start with and precise location of the side panels resulted in a perfectly square and robust assembly not requiring any trimming or filler, but note you don’t attach the rear plate at this stage as it also forms part of the upper superstructure later in construction.

The instructions show to add the interior parts to the lower floor plate before added the side panels to allow more room to work but I found gluing the main hull tub parts together first was the better option to ensure this is done spot on before proceeding as it does govern the final outcome of the kit.

I also found after gluing the tub parts together temporarily attaching the rear fighting compartment floor (part C-1) onto its locating lugs ensured the hull width was correct and aided in positioning the engine bulkhead (part C-5) inside the hull, which in turn made positioning the other internal parts easier but I will mention this more later.

Both the floor and side panels have excellent details on the inside with separate ribs and the driver’s foot pedals added to the floor while the side panels have panel joins and bolt heads along with additional right side wall detail next to the driver as well as the hand brake lever.

There are some pin marks on the sidewalls that are fairly big in diameter but shallow and some are hidden after assembly such as those next to the transmission while those in the engine compartment are visible if you leave the access doors open and will need filling.

Detail on the tub exterior consists of final drive and idler mount detail with separate return roller mountings and suspension bogies and the separate lower front plate allows good detail with separate tow hooks and inside final drive strips.

Suspension/Running Gear:

The suspension units are made of seven parts each and are designed to be movable if you are sparing with the glue. The bogie mounting plate fits neatly to the lower hull and the large spring is then attached without glue and held in place with a small U retainer (part E25) but this needed the inside deepened a little for a better fit, this is quite tricky due to the small size of the parts.

Next the two outer axles are fitted again without glue and the axle end caps (parts E7) carefully glued in place allowing the axles to move freely and this allows the suspension to rock back and forth to give the suspension articulation, the springs don’t actually compress but it the next best thing.

The eight road wheels have the correct 32 outer rim bolts and 16 inner hub bolts cleanly depicted on both sides of the wheel as well as having the rubber section as separate parts for good definition and also allowing these to be painted separately from the main wheel. The central hub is also a separate part and there is an inner pin that holds the wheel to the axle allowing free movement and this attachment pin is moulded as a hex bolt even though you can’t see this after assembly showing the attention to detail evident in this kit.

The upper return rollers have inner hubs with separate rubber sections with the “continental” embossing included and this allows for the very crisp detail on the hub.

The drive sprockets are the solid disc type as seen on most photos of production Flakpanzer 38(t)s and have excellent details on both sides of the sprocket discs as well as having separate hubs with well defined bolt heads as do the rear idlers which again have details on both sides of the wheel discs and separate hubs as well as the later 12 lightening holes.


These are in individual links designed to clip together for fully working track to go with the movable suspension and the details on the links is very good with crisp detail and the moulding process adding detail to the guide teeth, there is some sizable flash on a few links to be cleaned up but this is in the minority with most cleanly moulded as well as the sprue attachment scars on each link.

Each link has two small pins and corresponding locating holes on the opposite side of the link and is designed to clip together in the same manner as many resin track sets.

They click together easily but due to the small size of the links the pins and locating hole edges are quite fine and there was a quite high attrition rate where the links simply came apart with only light handling. With care you can assembly enough to go around the driver sprockets and idlers with those that won’t clip together used for the ground contact run and glued in place.

But the assembled track runs do look impressive and add further to the level of detail in the kit.

Individual track looks very good when fitted to the model
Note: the tracks shown are fitted to a previous 38(t) kit but are the same for this kit.


Fighting Compartment Interior:

This comes from the previous Marder H kit #35030 and separate 38(t) Interior Set #35032 and is very comprehensive and detailed with numerous fine plastic parts and many small etched parts and obviously there is quite a bit of assembly required especially on the transmission and engine but the final result is worth the effort if you want to show off the interior.

Obviously if building the kit buttoned up you can skip the interior and save quite a bit of assembly but it’s a shame not to take advantage of the detail provided with the choice up to the modeller.

The gearbox is nicely moulded with well defined cooling ribs and this is attached to the forward differentials that are made of five main plastic parts and numerous etched parts for a detailed assembly. Added to this is the steering arm and linkages that is made up of 6 plastic and 18 very small etched parts resulting in a steering arm assembly that is superbly detailed but obviously requires care during assembly.

Assembly of the transmission is fairly straightforward yet complex in that the parts fit well but due to the number of very small plastic and etched parts you will need a bit of work to get a result and careful study of the instructions is advisable before gluing anything.

The crew seat (just one in the Flakpanzer) again has multiple plastic and etched parts with the seat itself having the perforated seat pan and separate cushion with nice texture included as well as the backrests that include the fine ratchets for raising and lowering the backrest with the seat mountings from plastic and etched parts for the most detailed seats you are likely to find in a standard kit.

The Driver’s foot pedals are also provided as mentioned along with the instruments panel added to the underside of the top plate with both the seat and transmission quite visible if you leave the front inspection hatch and driver hatches open.

At the back is the engine bulkhead that has etched grills and louvers which can be positioned in the open or closed position.

There is the full Praga Typ TNHPS/II six-cylinder inline water-cooled petrol engine which is used in all 38(t) gun tanks from Ausf.A to G and S, plus the radiator, side fuel tanks and the battery for a fairly complete engine compartment.

The engine block is in two halves with separate top rocker cover and lower sump pan as well as having a separate front bell housing cover and nicely detail fly wheel inside which is completely hidden after assembly but shows the attention to detail in the engine parts.

Added to the engine are numerous accessories such as the alternator, carburettor and exhaust manifolds with about the only thing needed to finish off is adding the wring and plumbing from fine wire or sprue.

At the back is the large radiator with four parts, two for the radiator itself giving you nice mesh detail on both sides of the radiator, the large fan coaming and a nicely moulded fan with fine rib detail on the inside and outside of the moulding. There is the extended intake coaming over the radiator to the right side hull intake openings but this is completely hidden once the hull top panel is fitted but again you know it’s there.

There is a separate exhaust pipe that goes to join to the external exhaust pipe as well as the side mounted fuel tanks and battery which again can have the fuel lines and wiring added to finish off.

As mentioned I found it easier to assemble the hull tub before adding the interior but this does mean you have to be careful in the order you fit the sub-assemblies to get them to fit okay. The fuel tanks and battery are added first followed by the radiator assembly which is a nice snug fit.

The engine assembly has precise locating lugs on the floor to ensure proper location and the side exhaust pipe can then be added meeting the side wall and then the forward bulkhead added. This has a round cut-out that fits neatly over the engine bell housing just like the real setup and you may have to slightly flex out the side walls to slip the bulkhead in place but the fit is again quite precise once in place.

The seat can be attached to the floor and finally the assembled transmission added and again there are locating tabs on the floor to ensure the correct position with the drive shafts meeting the side panel mounting nicely with the fit of all these parts being trouble free.

Obviously you will paint the interior sub-assemblies and interior wall panels before the final assembly if you are showing any of the access hatches open.

Upper Hull Plates, Superstructure and Fenders:

The long one piece glacis plate of the Flakpanzer 38(t) has excellent rivet head detail with cut-outs for the separate cast driver’s hood and the engine inspection hatch which is a very snug fit to the glacis as is the fit of the driver’s hood with no trimming needed for either part.

The driver’s hood has very subdued, almost non existent cast texture that is hard to pick but there are also sizable mould seam lines running around the front section and care will be needed smoothing these but using the tip of a hobby knife should be enough to remove them. The two part driver’s hatches are free of any pin marks and fit to the hood nicely with nicely done interior detail but the real hatches have fairly substantial padding which you may want to enhance further if leaving the hatches open?

The front visor port is also a separate part if you wanted to show open and the right side visor is also a separate part for better defined detail with the fit of the glacis to the hull tub being very good again not requiring any trimming to fit.

Added to the front plate is the Notek light and you can add this now to later to avoid any damage during the rest of the assembly.

Added to the engine compartment are the four separate doors which again can be shown open or closed as you wish and these also fit very snugly together to form the top plate over the engine bay.

As mentioned the rear fighting compartment floor is one large part that includes the side overhang and these have large locating tabs that ensure precise location and added to this are the side superstructure panels with the engine intake covers.

The three louvers on the right side intake are separate parts that are very tricky to fit in place as the locating points are quite small and the correct angle is not shown but using care and reference photos these can be positioned correctly. The undersides of the intake overhangs are open without any grill work provided but any pin marks on the insides of the superstructure sides are hidden after assembly so don’t waste time filling these.

Rivet and panel detail on the superstructure side panels are superbly moulded and are also moulded a uniformly thickness to avoid the bevelled edges seen on some kits and make for excellent detail.

The fit of the superstructure sides to the hull is very good without any gaps to contend with as are the two small triangulare rear panels (parts F-11, F-12) with these and other panels having bevelled edges to ensure a good fit and no joins to be dealt with providing you are careful with the assembly as you go along.

The fit to the full side is also very good and the fenders should be added to the kit as you fit the side panels to align with the undersides of the superstructure overhand.

Fitting the top panel (part A-4) which includes the central hull top and side intake covers is a little tricky but fitted snugly once in place. There are some small gaps at the sides of the intake extensions but these pulled together when glued in place and providing you are careful during assembly of the superstructure parts there shouldn’t be a problem. But you should be aware there is potential for problems with the fit of this part if anything is slightly out of alignment leading up to fitting the panel so take care that everything fits and is aligned correctly as you go.

At the back is the large rear plate that includes the rear superstructure wall to which is added the two angled superstructure panels (parts C-10, C-11), these have a couple of shallow pin marks on the inside easily removed and the fit of the panels to the hull is extremely good without the slightest gap.

On this kit we have the perennial fender kink missing and looking at any photo of the Flakpanzer 38(t), either the factory pilot models or serving production models will show a distinct fender kink but the kit fenders are straight apart from a small kink at the rear to fit under the superstructure overhang. The locating ridge along the hill side is also straight but quite fine and it wouldn’t be that much trouble to alter the fenders to include the kink if you wished.

I have included a few reference photos to fully illustrate the fender kink as this feature is very noticeable on the Flakpanzer 38(t) fenders.

The fenders themselves have the attachment brackets included along with the raised strengthening ridges on the top but devoid of any detail on the undersides with locating holes for the pioneer tools which are provided separate along with etched tool clips. There is also the distinctive 38(t) perforated storage box in plastic only and you can add the tools now or later to avoid damage whichever you choose. 

The upper folding superstructure panels are also moulded uniformly thin with no pin marks to be seen and these can be positioned raised or lowered as you wish with separate small securing latches to hold the various panels together in the raised position.

Added to the rear panel when attached is the rear exhaust muffler moulded as one tube with separate exhaust pipes and the long single pipe that runs from the side engine louvers to the exhaust and this slips into the side louvers to fit into the hole in the hull side which it does okay providing you left the hole open when fitting the engine earlier.

2cm FlaK38:

The gun is straight from the 20mm Flak 38 Late (kit #35029) and as most available images of the production Flakpanzer 38(t) show later gun features such as the later embossed hand wheels, ribbed receiver cover and later sight with this kit including all those features.

The 20mm gun barrel is moulded separate to the gun receiver with a separate shell ejection shut cover with a round included in the chamber if you leave the door open? The flash suppressor is nicely hollowed out and is quite thin but the neck holes are only represented by small indentations and while it gives a good impression of the flash suppressor replacing this with one of the available metal 2cm barrels would improve the look further.

The actual measurements of the 20mm FlaK gun are; full length of the gun (receiver/housing and visible barrel including flash suppressor) 2252.5mm which equals 64.357mm in 1:35 scale and the visible length of the barrel with flash suppressor is 995mm being 28.429mm (rounded to 28.5mm) in 1:35 scale.

The kit barrel length is 28.5mm but you should take care when fitting the barrel as can be pushed further back into the received than it should go leaving the barrel short so ensure you position the barrel correctly for the correct length as above, I also choose to use the recent Adlers Nest 2cm metal barrel (set #ANM35027/27B) as this has a superior flash suppressor and easy to replace as it is just the barrel like the plastic kit barrel. 

The gun mountings have the upper round bearings as separate parts with excellent details that include the round attachment points at either end of the bearing. These are fitted to the corresponding attachment brackets on the gun mountings by the use of four very small ring pins which will need extreme care when removing from the sprue and in fitting. Added to the pins are very fine etched chains provided for a nice finishing touch.

Take note that there is a locating hole on the right bearing only for the elevation arm so take care to fit this correctly as it’s easy to transpose the bearings if not careful.

On the right mounting the inner wall half is a separate part with a small etched bracket and the sight connecting rod that fit together with very small locating pins and corresponding holes in the etched part that are then trapped between the two mounting halves and allow the sight arm to move which in turn allows the sight to move with any elevation of the gun as well as giving the correct open slit along the top of the gun mounting for excellent detail.

Also the separate perforated reinforcing bracket has the mounting brackets included on the mounting wall but this bracket is barely seen after assembly although it does add that extra level of detail.

There are also no pin marks at all on the gun mountings and there is a subtle ‘orange peel’ surface effect with just fine moulding seams but these should be left to represent the weld seams on the real mountings.

The main sight assembly mounted between the rear of the gun cradle sides is the later sight and take note that there are three small tabs on the bottom of the main sight mounting (part a-17) which look like pin marks but actually correctly depict the three small mounting lugs so don’t be tempted to remove these. The sight assembly sits slightly above the rear cradle sides as a result of the tabs which again is correct and does not sit flush as with most other FlaK38 kits and shows the attention to detail  in this kit.

Moving to the sight itself, this is made up of six plastic and two etched parts for a very detailed sub-assembly and care will be needed when fitting the etched ‘cross hairs’ as there are two small pins at the side that fit onto the sight frame (part c-19) leaving a very small gap around the etched part which again is how it should be but will need care to position the etched part correctly.

The instructions show to leave the sight mounting arm (part c-15) unglued to allow this to move in accordance with the gun elevation but there is no way of holding this in place and it’s best to decide on the required gun elevation and glue the sight accordingly.

The left side ammo rack is provided as an etched part with the X stamping included on both sides and this is an improvement over the thicker plastic parts on previous kits and the kit provides four 20mm magazines, three for the etched rack and one for the gun which is slightly different from the other three so make sure you use the right one (part a-30) for the gun.

When fitting the gun to the cradle the main elevation linkage (parts a-12 and a-14) is also designed to be movable but again there is nothing to hold this in place and as with the sight its best glued according to the gun elevation decided on.

The nicely represented late gunner’s seat is made up of six parts and a nice inclusion is the added armour plate fitted behind the gunner’s seat to provide additional protection when the upper superstructure sides are down. This shield shows on pilot model photos but is not present on many action photos of the Flakpanzer 38(t) but having it included offers the choice of fitting if you wish.

On the elevation and traverse controls the small hand wheels are the stamped later style with excellent details as does the main stamped traverse box mounted on the right of the gun with these being the main visual differences between the early and late guns.

Assembling the main gun cradle and gun sees the parts fit perfect especially the fit of the gun bearings allowing smooth elevation and no trimming was required at all making for a trouble free assembly. There are a few fine parts and some intricate assemblies such as the bracket and sight arm trapped between the right cradle sides but with care there shouldn’t be any problems.

The linkage arm (part a-26) is then added between the trapped etched bracket and the gun bearing but this is not designed to be movable which is another reason to choose the required elevation and glue things firmly on place but the movable sight arm in the right cradle side allows this to be easily joined to the sight after fixing the elevation.

Additional parts such as the 7 fine pin chains can now be added and I find twisting the etched chains as well as bending to shape gives a more 3D look than just bending the chains.

Moving to the shields, these are moulded quite thin without any pin marks anywhere with the front shield fillets as separate parts allowing additional details to be included and these fillets are nice and thin and the shields have excellent bolt head and attachment detail on both sides.

Also included is the mesh spent shell cage which has fine plastic frames and etched “mesh” that has small tabs that are bent around the frames for fairly easy assembly as these things go but you still need to take care with this assembly. One thing is the etched mesh is quite think for the netting it is supposed to represent and looks a little over scale and you should also anneal the mesh by running through a candle flame to allow for more natural sag to be incorporated using finger pressure when attaching the outer mesh (part F-16).

Attaching the round lower gun floor (part a-3) to the pedestal mounting allows the gun to traverse with the floor held in place by an inner attachment plate (part a-4) that traps the floor plate to the upper pedestal ring (part c-3) but the fit of part a-4 was not the best and did not hold the floor plate tightly enough. To remedy this I simply reduced the height of the central pin on part a-4 and this allowed it to fit more tightly holding the floor firmly in place while still allowed easy traverse of the gun.


The small decal sheet is well printed with three balkenkreuz and markings for just two Flakpanzer 38(t)s from 12th and 21st Panzer Divisions in Normandy, 1944 with various cam schemes.

Scheme 1 is for the well photographed vehicle #13 of the 12th Panzer Division (shown as 2nd Pz.Div in the instructions) in France 1944 and available images of this vehicle clearly show the solid drive sprocket, fender kink and the use of the later model FlaK38.

The number 13 is provided in white for the superstructure sides and black for the intake covers with the Dragon decal sheet having the number in red. As all available photos of the vehicle are in black and white in which red shows as black I have no further information on the actual correct colour for this number.
Flakpanzer 38(t)
Image courtesy Ground Power Magazine
Also of interest is the can scheme is applied to the insides of the drop panels as well as the vehicle number and the decal sheet does give you three numbers in white but doesn’t tell you to apply these on the insides of the drop panels.



These are the usual exploded view drawings that are very busy in places especially for the more complex assemblies and you should study them very closely before any assembly to avoid any traps but overall they were fairly easy to follow.


This kit of the Flakpanzer 38(t) from Tristar is superbly detailed as well as being dimensionally correct but there is a bit of additional cleanup needed on some parts. And make no mistake you will need to put in extra work due to some of the more complex assemblies and breakdown of the parts. Some detail though is quite basic such as the undersides of the fenders and replacing these with etched fenders would improve the look as well as allowing damage which is often seen on 38(t) fenders.

Also included are all the later features clearly evident in the majority of wartime photos of production Flakpanzer 38(t)s and the interior detail provided makes it a shame to hide most of it with the glacis and engine covers.

Highly recommended 8/10

For another opinion on the kit see the review by Paul Owen on Track Link.

Also see the 38(t) and 2cm Flak38 subject pages for addition kit and accessory set reviews


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Detail Images
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Comparison summary:

As mentioned I will not be doing a detailed comparison of the kits until the Italeri kit is available later in the year but the Dragon and Tristar kits both will build into very nice models of the Flakpanzer 38(t) as they come with both having their pluses and minises.

In summary: Moulding quality:

The Dragon kit has cleaner parts with very crisp detail without any flash or appreciable pin marks while the Tristar kit has a number of parts with fine flash and some pin marks that requires additional cleanup so the Dragon kits rates higher in regards moulding quality.

Part detail:

The Dragon kit as mentioned has cleanly moulded detail but this is a little sparse in places especially the interior where the Tristar kit has additional detail included on the floor and side panels as well as the full driver’s foot pedals, instrument panel which are missing from the Dragon kit.

Comparing the interiors the Tristar kit is clearly more detailed with some of the Dragon details being fairly basic in comparison, this is obvious to anyone with functioning eyesight in both eyes.

But as mentioned there is considerably more assembly needed with the Tristar kit due to the many small parts and more complex assemblies while the Dragon kit assembly is far more straightforward due to the fewer parts breakdown.

Some other parts such as the fenders while not having the kink are better detailed on the Dragon kit with underside detail and separate attachment brackets for good definition as well as not having open holes for the tools which gives a cleaner appearance after assembly.

Build ability:

Continuing the theme from the interior the Dragon kit overall is an easier build due the main assemblies such as the lower hull tub and superstructure sides being in single pieces while made up of multiple parts in the Tristar kit.

The superstructure is broken down very differently on both kit but I found both assembled without any real problems with good part fit overall.

The Tristar 2cm Flak is also more complex than the Dragon gun but again the Tristar gun is more detailed as a result of the extra parts and work.

But overall on a pure build ability scale the Dragon kit is the easier build of the two.


Both kits are dimensionally sound according to the available data and plans with any discrepancy being within acceptable tolerances but the Dragon kit misses some important details clearly shown in photos of the decal options provided. These include the solid drive sprockets and later 2cm gun parts which are included in the Tristar kit. Both kits also do not have the fender kink that is evident in most available photos of the Flakpanzer 38(t).

So in the end we have a similar situation as with previous kits in the 38(t) series. If you want a kit with cleanly moulded parts that goes together relatively easily and are not fussed with complete accuracy then the Dragon kit will be the kit for you as it will build into a nice model of the Flakpanzer 38(t).
On the other hand if you want a more accurate and detailed kit especially the interior and are not afraid of some additional work along the way then the Tristar kit is the way to go.

The final decision is really up to the modeller in what you want from a kit as both will without labouring the point build into nice models of the Flakpanzer 38(t).

The choice is yours.

Flak Selbstfahrlafetten and Flakpanzer
Panzer Tracts No.12
Thomas L Jentz
Hilary Louise Doyle
Flakpanzer 38(t)
Armour in Focus
Janusz Ledwoch
English Edition;
Books International
Ground Power Magazine
#065 - 10/1999

Published by GALILEO Publishing Co.,Ltd
German Flakpanzers
PANZER 38(t)

Ian Allen Publishing
ISBN: 071103091X
LT vz.38 P zKpfw 38(t)

MBI Publishing
ISBN: 80-86524-01-9
PzKpfw 38(t)
Tank Power Vol.XXI
Wydawnictwo Militaria No.241
ISBN: 83-7219-241-3

Thanks to my credit card and the excellent service fromRainbow Tenfor the review kit.

Page created February 20, 2008