British Scammell Pioneer
TRMU30/TRCU30 Tank Transporter 30 ton
Thunder Model kit 35200
Guide to modifying the front suspension/fenders to articulate
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This guide will hopefully aid in achieving this should you want fully articulated steering for your model?
The front leaf spring is moulded in two halves (A7, A8) that include the 'stub axle swivel jaws' at either end and these are sandwiched together trapping the movable stub axles between them. You first need to trim the excess moulding tabs and small raised marks from the inside faces of the springs to get a perfectly flat mating surface so they will join flush. But don't glue the spring halves together yet as there are some modifications needed before hand.
First; Drill a 0.4mm hole in the ends of the push-pull rod and insert a 0.4mm wire pin, it's best to use wire as plastic rod or stretched sprue will not be strong enough take the movement stresses. Don't worry too much about the length of the wire pin this can be trimmed later, but about 3-4mm exposed will do. You then drill a 0.4mm hole in the ends of the steering arms, there is a recess used to locate the part to serve as a guide for drilling.
Next a 0.75mm plastic rod pin is added to the stub axles (C51, C52) that will extend up though the top half of the axle jaws. Note; the .75mm rod was actually closer to 0.9mm and I needed to drill a 0.9mm hole in the parts to take the so called 0.75mm rod. Drill the 0.9mm hole in the centre of the top rotating lug on the stub axles, make sure you identify the top correctly and drill a smaller pilot hole perfectly in the centre of the lug and then enlarge this hole via slightly larger drill bits until you get to the 0.9mm required, this will lessen the stresses during drilling preventing damage to the part than if you tried to drill the larger hole all at once. With the holes drilled glue the lengths of plastic rod with about 7mm exposed into the stub axles and leave to dry completely.
The two spring halves can now be glued together while trapping the stub axles between than and glue carefully to ensure no glue gets onto the stub axles and especially onto the plastic rod pin, make sure this moves okay while the glue dries. Once glued you can fit the two-part Perch Bar (A12, A13) and ball socket plate (C55) as well as the curved front axle (D12) with this assembly glued to the insides of the axle jaws. The fit here is very positive so there shouldn't be any fit problems.
The upper steering arm (C38) can also be attached but this MUST only be glued to the plastic rod pin, take care not to get any glue on the axle jaws in the process and check the stub axle and steering arm can still move freely in unison with the stub axle after attaching the arm, if any glue gets on the jaws just move the stub axle with pin back and forth until the glue loses it's 'bite' and moves freely. Note the arm should be set at 90 degrees to the wheel hub during this process and the plastic rod pin should extend about 3-4mm out from the axle jaws at this stage.Note the plastic rod pin extending out from the top of the axle jaws.
After ensuring all the stub axles/pins and arm move freely the suspension unit assembly can be attached to the chassis as per kit instructions and the steering linkages back to the chassis steering box can be attached.
(1) fit the pin you added to C40 into the hole at the end of the push-pull rod (D26) and secure with a plastic disc as before or whatever method you prefer but again make sure the parts move freely.
(2) fit the other end of the bracket C40 to the steering box D23 and secure in place again making sure it moves freely.
(3) fit the large bracket on the end of the push-pull rod to the end of the upper steering arm C38 and again secure with a card disc while again making sure all the joints move freely, it is most important you check each joint as you go to avoid and problems with glue getting where it shouldn't along the way.
On the actual vehicle the fender brackets are mounted on top of the axle jaws assembly allowing these to turn with the wheels and you basically replicate this with the modified fender brackets being glued to the plastic rod pin extending out from the axle jaws. Fitting this to the right side is easy as you have the upper steering arm in place so you can glue the fender bracket over the pin and onto the arm, but just make sure no glue gets to the jaws.
Attaching the left side fender is a little trickier as you have to fit the bracket to the pin extension but ONLY glue the bracket to the pin making sure not to get any glue on the axle jaws in the process. As the glue starts to 'go off' check the wheel hub moves along with the fender attached to the pin. Once you have checked that there is no glue in the wrong place leave to dry completely before testing the steering again but if all goes well when dry the steering along with all linkages/arms and the fenders should move a one as you turn the wheels.
Once the glue has dried and everything moves you can trim the 0.9mm pin flush with the fender bracket for a better appearance and the wheels fitted to the hubs or left off till later in the assembly depending on your preferences?
Hopefully this guide will assist in articulating the front suspension/steering for those who wish to do so, this guide will be incorporated into the full kit review which will be posted shorty.
Note; the side 'back' and 'next' buttons are inactive but will be activated with the full review, thank you
Please note, the initial comments on the rear suspension were incorrect and removed after being on-line for about 30 minutes. If you had seen these please disregard what was posted, thank you.
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